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Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Guide to climbing Mt Kinabalu

This media trip is made possible by Amazing Borneo Tours

Widely travelled host Bryan Wong shared with me a tip.

"To travel far flung, inaccessible and exotic places while you're young because nearby places and comfortable cities can be visited when you're old."

It was something i would like to adopt, unfortunately i am not a travel host where time and money was not a constraint.

Machu Picchu, much as i like the name rolling on my lips, will have to wait.

However, closer to home, a much higher mountain and a road less trodden (by Singaporeans) awaits for achievers. I wouldn't say that its something you can't do when you're old (oldest was a 73 year old Japanese lady) but its a shame if you hadn't done it when a 7 year old Caucasian have done it without whining.

I must say i survived the climb because i was as well-prepared as i could be, hearing from Huimin who have climbed before. She is planning to climb a second time with her first timer boyfriend and i applaud her for climbing a second time because I wouldn't. That's true love.

Getting my Trip Arranged by (10 weeks before)

The typical Singaporean expects Sabah tours to be cheap, because its Malaysia where everything is half price right? Climbing Mt Kinabalu isn't dirt cheap as we thought it would be because for a start, there are price differences between a local and a foreigner in lodging, permits and park entrance fee.

I liked that Amazing Borneo was transparent with all costs unlike some tour operators on their website. Also, engaging an agent to arrange the climb for you is better because they have relationships with the park operators aka permit suppliers. Mt Kinabalu is a conservation site and therefore only a number of permits are allowed. It is also a mistake to get the permit first but not the lodging at Base Camp because there are only 120 beds available  and they sell like hot cakes.

So i leave it to the hands of this climb operator and they scrambled to secure a bed and permit for my climb. Many people plan Mt Kinabalu a good 3 months in advance because of its scarcity. Having a local presence (511 Guillemard Road) but owned by a local Sabah made my allocation available.

Training to Climb (6 weeks before)

Everyone who climbed advised me to train. My dad kept nagging me to climb the stairs as practice. I climbed once or twice up the 30 odd floors of a nearby HDB with him but soon gave up because in an enclosed space, smelling farts (especially when its not mine) is not my favourite past time.

A friend even showed me a picture of his split canvas shoe. I got a little nervous, is it that bad?

About this time, i was being offered seats in the MRT. Feeling self-conscious about my food baby, i signed up for personal fitness training. Doing circuit training an hour a week on top of my hot yoga twice a week, i felt ready!

I usually start packing my luggage a week before departure (Lots of holiday photo taking right? Need to plan outfits. ) but strangely i kept putting off packing for Mt Kinabalu. It must be because Amazing Borneo's tips and things to pack was so comprehensive, it was intimidating.
I could do with a lighter load.
Honestly, even for a climber who did not book with Amazing Borneo, he/she can steal info from here.

However, i must stress, if you are considering climbing Mt Kinabalu, where a British teenager died by getting lost during the climb, booking the tour through an agent who wouldn't compromise on quality is of utmost important. Amazing Borneo, who put in the effort to compile such detailed information, sends their staff including drivers for first aid courses, build a good rapport with all tour operators that they recognize Amazing Borneo tourists anywhere, is a good bet.

Otherwise, you may end up like this netizen who ended up with a bad experience
"At the hut, we recuperated without food, showers and dormitories. In my experience, the guides did not appear well prepared, their equipment included domestic bin bags with a hole for the head as waterproofs and a torch if you were lucky."
          Jocasta Webb  
I'm Gonna Climb
It's my dad's birthday month so i thought i would invite him along. I thought it would be cool to attain a physical achievement for his 59th birthday.

It was my first flight on Air Asia and it was a pleasant surprise to see that their food didn't come in flimsy containers with plastic lids that looked like it melted in the microwave. It even has nutritional information! Ordering inflight meals online with your fare saves heaps, almost half price! Air Asia is also the first airline to offer Bubble Tea. However, it's only 2 choices and none of it includes tapioca pearls :( Can't be hugged by mama.

Oh, and check out the fiery tight uniforms, they can contend the SIA girl.

09:00 hours  Pile up on Carbs
Spending the night in a lodge at 3300 meters above sea level and waking up in cool crisp morning air, it reminds me of my childhood holidays in Genting Highlands.

Lunch on the first day is packed and consist of 2 eggs, 4 slices of white bread with processed cheese, 2 mini bananas and an apple. Its wise to feast at breakfast before the climb.
Life savers during the climb will be a pair of water resistant gloves, rain coats and sweets. However, if you have forgotten anything, you can still buy 3300 meters above sea level, at convenience prices like 7-11.
I thought it would be a gradual ascend, but no, a long flight of very steep steps greeted me. Our bags felt light, we were bouncing with energy and told ourselves we could do it.
The steps seem like a stairway to Heaven, they never end.
I thought 7 huts dotting the 6 km trail to Base Camp was a tad too much, little did i know that each 0.5 km felt like eternity and each rest hut was like an oasis in a dessert, to be looked upon with jubilant delight. The realization hit me, this isn't a walk in a park, it's A CLIMB.

11:00 hours  It's a Strip Tease
Tip: Having had chafes and abrasions during a 10 KM Standard Chartered marathon, i wise up to having the right undergarments for extreme walking. Go commando.

Staying stationary you feel the chill, but the moment you start trekking, perspiration drips. I started with a long sleeve tee and a sweater, but less than 0.5 km later, i have stripped to the above. 

My bag felt heavier with each step, despite me patting myself on my back that i've brought the bare minimum.
Do you see a man hugging a tree?
I'm not sure if it's just me or if Take 5ive really took effect. My eyes felt brighter despite having barely enough sleep. However, one undeniable fact is that it is small and light compared to other energy drinks like Red Bull, 100 Plus or Gatorade. Besides, it's touted to be natural caffeine and made of green coffee beans.
I noticed that most mountain guides hired at Timpohon Gate or from other tour operators mostly followed at the backs of their travelers, silent.

My guides from Amazing Borneo enthralled me with tales of the flora and fauna found along the trail.
Mt Kinabalu actually has 1/3 of the world's moss. Like crossing different lands in DisneyLand, we trek pass different vegetation zones. However, it is easy to neglect these details because we are all VERY focused in getting to Base Camp that we charge through. 
This is a plant that rolls up like a snail but stretches out over time and remains stretched.
Pitcher plant that digests trapped insects.
12:30 hours  Don't be a Hero
Tip: Don't be a hero, rent a walking stick for RM 10 at Timpohon Gate. Pace yourself as you acclimatize. You'll find yourself breathing heavier when you start but over time, it becomes effortless (just the breathing) and i enjoy the adrenaline to have the heart thumping like never before.

The terrain gets rougher, well cut-out steps disappear.
Share your lunch with feisty squirrels and watch the unsung heros flit from stone to stone, leaving you to bite their dust.

Now, I understand why the permit and lodging didn't come cheap. All the manual labour that goes into maintaining the park, cutting out the steps or transportation of every sack of rice, cooking gas tank, brick or rubbish.
Later up at Base Camp, the Nescafe will be sold at RM 10.
It costs RM 8 to transport every kilo, to make their while's worth, they usually carry 20 KG per trip and make this trip 3 times a week.
That will be our bed linen.
Such strenuous work, yet they are happy, greeting every climber as they go. Their calf muscles were as big as my thigh.

I climbed with my dad and i realised there is no greater love than a father's love. Very early on, my dad asked if i needed him to carry my haversack. Mind you, he has his own haversack, i am an adult and relatively fit but still he asked. None of my 2 ex boyfriends have ever proactively asked to carry my bag when we go trekking. They usually don't even carry a bag of their own!

I think i should test a potential suitor by dragging him up a mountain ;p

15:00 hours Half the Battle Won
Laban Rata Base Camp
6 hours of climbing, we've finally arrived! As a first timer, if i hadn't climbed with Amazing Borneo's help, i wouldn't have known that lodging at Laban Rata have a couple of options although all were in the same area. We were housed dormitory style in the main building, above the common dining area. There were other staying places but you would have to walk to and fro the dining area. After 6 hours of climbing and in 4 degrees, you'll be thanking your lucky stars if you secured the main building.
We slept amongst the clouds
16.30 hours Dinner Time
What, dinner time? Yes, and then it's bed time. The ascend to the summit starts at 2am.

I went for dinner in my pajamas. Everyone ate like a famished ghost.
After 6 hours of climbing and in 4 degrees, i don't really care about image.
The slippers remind me of disposable panties.

Food was surprisingly good.
Thankfully the cooks up at base camp were good, otherwise very sad no other choices around.

All dormitories except for a luxury lodge has no heater and no hot showers. I had a hot water bottle, i wore gloves, socks, long johns and a sweater to sleep. I also attempted with a cold shower but gave up after washing my hair, face down. I decided not to brave it but wipe myself down instead.

This must be what army feels like, except worse.

It was REALLY DIFFICULT trying to sleep before sun down. I thought i would be knocked unconscious after a 6 hours challenging trek but no, i laid in bed at 5.30pm hearing the creaking wooden floors, the slamming of doors and the noisy chatter of people who didn't attempt sleep.
Very basic room, no towel nor toiletries provided.
While it's expensive for a night's stay, mind you, every single thing you see here is carried by the unsung heroes!

Or perhaps, it's excitement keeping me awake.

Yet i forced myself to sleep because my logical mind told me the body needed the rest for the summit in a few hours time. So bring whatever can lull you to sleep: ear plugs, MP3 or a book. If you brought none, experts say sexual relations puts you to sleep, except while after a gym visit can still get you going, you really don't want to move once you reach base camp. So i'd say, you can trust a lover if he plans to do a solo trip up any treacherous mountain. He won't be having physical affairs, no energy to. Plus, no one bathes up there. If there's no human to have sexual relations with, it's time to get creative.

Tip: Bring your own sachets of Milo because it's soooo good to get a hot chocolatey drink. Hot water is provided free but a cup of Milo or a can of Coke costs SGD 5. Some people were desperate enough to purchase as a treat. I didn't think of it so i could only look in envy, smacking my lips.

01.30 hours To the Summit
I gave up trying to sleep, i just couldn't. Arrived groggily to breakfast, ate enough but not too full because it is now 3600 meters above sea level and the climb to the summit is EVEN steeper and tougher. Having a full stomach is just going to make me feel queasy. Besides, there are NO toilet stops in the next 6 hours, you really wouldn't want to answer nature's call. Worse if it's a bigger call.
Again, made the mistake of wearing too much but this time it took me longer before i start my strip tease. The snow cap and sweater are not necessary till you reach the summit. Then again, it could be because i wore long johns underneath so i was kept really toasty.

Everyone wears a head lamp (own) because we climb in pitch darkness.
The stars were strewn across the velvet sky like jewels. What i wrote in composition back in school was a pretty accurate description.
It was even steeper than in the afternoon. There was quite a crowd, so everyone filed into an orderly manner as we snaked up the narrow path. It was a combination of craved out steps and rocky terrain. The most exhilarating part was when we had to abseil with the help of a rope. NOW, I FEEL LIKE A REAL MOUNTAINEER.

Gloves are a must-bring because not only does it keep you warm but it also protects your hands while using ropes. You can consider bringing the ones durian sellers use because if they're something to be thrashed after, you can let the ropes burn your gloves without caring too much. However, it does get soaked because the air is moist and it rains a lot. When it gets wet, your fingers may start getting numb.

Suddenly, the ground went flat. This was the most enjoyable part because it was dark, i could see no end and i felt the land was very vast. I turned off my head lamp, took a deep breath inhaling the fresh 4095 meters mountain air, looked up into the sky and prayed.

Yes, it was a moment with God. Somehow, i felt closer being 4095 meters above sea level. The story of the Tower of Babel came into mind where men built a tower reaching into the skies to make a name for themselves. The Bible story was a lesson about pride and nearly reaching the summit of Mt Kinabalu, i was humbled.

05:40 hours Humbled by the wondrous works of Creation
If you keep a steady pace, without stopping too much and with a fitter health than average, you get to reach the summit earlier than most, find a nice spot to park yourself and camera to wait for the sunrise.

Dawn breaks in a blink.
Not caring about the long john sticking out and being an eye sore, i'm happy i'm warm.

My first layer was long johns, second was a woolen sweater, third was a wind breaker. I think i was a little bit kiasu but better that than to be freezing!
 Especially when you want to cam whore.
Brave the cold and cam whore.

My dad was "Eh, enough photos already. My fingers are freezing, just do a mental snapshot."

The men don't get it.

I took 12 hours to reach here, i'm not leaving until i have at least 100 photos. OMG, I FORGOT TO TAKE A PANORAMIC SHOT!!! Ahhhhhh.....

Tip: Trawl the net for some photo ideas of what people take on the mountain. Some creative shots can be imitated for your personal memory. I was following some stranger in Instagram and coincidentally he was trekking some mountain in Israel, i was super jealous of his shots! I only saw them when i was back in the city, DAMNIT!
When you ain't very creative, you do the fail proof jumping shot, except your legs are too jelly to jump. Although i am very sure it's my dad whose shutter speed wasn't accurate.

When meal times at base camp and at the Timpohon Gate are fixed, it becomes important to meet those meal times. It felt like the amazing race. I had to race up to catch the sun rise (5.40am), race back down to base camp for breakfast (before 10.30am) and then race back down to Timpohon (before 4pm) for lunch.

0730 hours With Sight, comes Fear
After taking 101 pictures, i reluctantly made my descend. I couldn't believe this was the path i took when coming up! It looked so different in daylight. It felt like i was on Mars. Suddenly, it didn't feel like the ground was flat but filled with dangerous rocks that could make you slip and come tumbling down. I realised that with sight, comes fear.
No bush in sight, i really had to pee. So i ran ahead of people, found a huge rock to pee. Alas, i'm not the only who who thinks its a great pee spot.

The descend was ALOT more painful and slower than the ascend because our knees are not used to it and instead of fleeting from rock to rock which helps, we are carefully picking rocks and concentrating what's the next step. It was like playing chess, my head hurt.
Tip: Clip your toe nails 
I didn't and so my toe nail threatened to fall off. In the descend, the front of the foot keeps knocking into your shoe, it was something i've never encountered before. 

It was a torture and i kept asking myself "oh, what have i got into!" If climbing up was tough, going down was ten times harder. 

At the park ranger's hut, to salvage my toe nail, they offered me a worn out hotel bedroom slipper.
THEN IT STARTED RAINING. At this time, i no longer care about photos, my bag getting wet (although a rain cap for bags is really useful) nor me getting wet. I just WANT TO GET OUTTA HERE! We had to hurry or the entire trail will be flooded.

My dad asked if i wanted a porter to carry me down like a failure queen.

I remembered the Hall of Shame up at base camp.
Most people get carried off the mountain instead of up the mountain. Like i said, going up is just half the battle won. However, it costs RM 300 per KILOMETER. I've barely completed 2KM before my toe nail was in danger, that means i would need to pay RM 1200 if i needed their services. Apparently, the mountain guide can radio and 4 porters will miraculously appear from the bushes to bundle you up and carry you off in a stretcher.
I decided to persevere and save the money for spa and still have change. One foot bedroom slipper, one foot shoe, i walked like an old woman fearful i would fall upon those sharp rocks and disfigure. Words can't describe how the descend was, you have to experience for yourself.
The sweet finish.

Could not move, would not move.
We were presented a certificate by the Kinabalu National Park, it was a pretty certificate with embossed motifs. I noticed Amazing Borneo Tours was the only one who provides their climbers with a folder to hold that precious certificate, one that we achieve with pride. I saw other climbers not knowing what to do with the paper, not knowing where to keep. To roll or not to roll?

I haven't gone though child labour, but this was the most physically challenging i've ever experienced. We couldn't walk properly and ached for 5 days straight. We recoiled in fear whenever a staircase came in view. We couldn't board and alight vehicles without a wince, daily massages didn't help. Thankfully, Kota Kinabalu has a low crime rate, we were vulnerable with extremely weak legs.

It felt SO good though, to physically push the body beyond regular limits. During the torturous descent, i told myself i'm never going to do this again! But now that i'm back in Singapore, 2 weeks have passed, i don't feel the pain anymore, i forget the pain. I feel like i can do it again, but Everest this time.

Tip: Climbing Mt Kinabalu was no mean feat but definitely something that can be accomplished by most. Before departure, friends who have climbed all told me "its sooooo tough!" or "you better train!!" or "its SUPER cold". Someone asked me to diet, and someone even showed me his spilt shoes. They exxagerated so much that i started cutting discount coupons for new sport shoes (maybe i'll need it after the trip) and fret if i am training enough. From their advice, i definitely packed abit too much which kept me warm and toasty. I didn't diet, neither did i embark on an extreme training regime prior. My dad at 59, while he experienced some altitude sickness at base camp, had a loss of appetite and slept through the evening, woke up at 1.30am and contemplated the summit with us. He Took5ive (energy drink) and decided to charge on. He made it to the summit 15 minutes after me and managed to catch the sun rise at the eleventh hour. Slow and steady, you'll surely make it.

After Mount Kinabalu, my appetite is insatiable. It was a triumph, it was an achievement and i could say
I walked above clouds.


Kinabalu King said...

So far, your entry on the Kinabalu hike is the most transparent and revealing I've seen on the net.
Its like the friendliest idiot's guide to Kinabalu!

I have a lot of friends coming to KK, and wanting a piece of the mountain. I climbed the mountain myself 7 years ago, and as such my input on the subject is kind of outdated.
With this entry of yours, it'll be easy for them to understand the do's & dont's.
Expect a wave of views for this article. ;)

Shyanne Browning said...

Climbing Kinabalu was one of the best experiences of my life. Luckily for me, it was a school trip so the cost was deducted from Edusave. We didn't spend a cent. Personally I found the descent a lot easier than the ascent. I was the last girl to make it up but the first girl to make it down in our group. LOL I guess I was just eager for lunch and a toilet.

One of my friends actually proposed to his girlfriend at the summit. It was quite cool, they asked their friend to take a video of them at the summit then all of a sudden the guy got down on one knee and proposed then the girl started crying! Not a very glamourous video but it was nice when they showed it at their wedding.

Anonymous said...

I really enjoy reading your climb to Mt. Kinabalu. I have climbed the mountain four times but that was a long long time ago, a lot of things have changed and price for the tour also have increased...well except the climbers and the unsung heroes of course, they're still the same, patiently and perseveringly ascend and descend the mountain. Pictures taken are lovely and never fails to describe the real situation and your description of the whole journey is also very clear. Anyone who reads your posting will have almost 90% of what they need to know about climbing to Mt. Kinabalu. Thanks for sharing.

Xtine said...

@Kinabalu King : are you the couch surfer? very egoistic summary about yourself, but so funny! i like. well, i'd say you need to climb it yourself with your visiting friends again, if the reviews are right about you, i'm sure you'll be entertaining them by singing in the rain!

@shyanne: you're different! most people say coming down was harder than going up. i would have done it again, if there was a helicopter ride down. that's definitely a moment to propose!

@Anon: the oldest unsung hero is 53, perhaps you saw him as a young man?

thanks for leaving a comment you all! beats talking to myself.

Kinabalu King said...

Not sure which part sounded egoistic..
but you're the one with the award. ;)
You should join couchsurfing too. :)

Dedrick Koh said...

Congrats on climbing Mt. Kinabalu. I think a lot of people take for granted how difficult it is.

It's awesome that you climbed it with your dad. It's nice to see that the both of you enjoy a close relationship.

Anonymous said...

Hi Christine. I came across your post when I was googling on "climbing Mount KK". I must say your post is really hilarious and you've managed to capture the climb in the most candid yet serious way (if that makes sense). It's very sweet of you to climb with your dad, that's the greatest bond one can have with a loved one.

Hey you're also very fashionable at The Peak, pretty in pink and the wonderful picture you have! I'm considering of climbing Mount KK next year in Feb, it's now or never and I think it will be something to look forward to in 2013. I've read here and there, everyone had different comments, from shoes to training to many more stuffs. Hopefully I will make it to The Peak.

You took the Mersilau route? I'm guessing as your certificate is the colourful one. I think the Timpohon route is the one where you get a black and white certificate. Kudos on your successful climb. *Cue* I somehow hear Myley Cyrus singing "The Climb" -_-"

Anonymous said...

Hi perfect angel :)

Thanks for the lovely comment! Sorry my post doesn't provide much of the usual list of things to bring. I strongly urge u to book w Amazing Borneo Tours. Also, kudos to you doing this to start off 2013!! It will be an experience.


lim said...

Hi, your post is very helpful and i had made it to the summit on 4/4/13.
Here I would like to add some comments:
1. The colourful cert means successfully conquered the summit, whereas black and white cert means made it to Laban Rata only but not the summit.
2. Untreated water can be refill at all the rest hut, but the supply is not constant. All the water tank was emptied when we descending.
3. How fit need to be? I am a guy aged 48. Every week I jogged 5km for 3 days and run 10km in 75mins once a week. I have done this for 6 months before the climb. The climb was exhausted but manageable. I took 5 hours climb to Laban Rata and next morning 2.5 hours to the summit.
4. What to wear. I am quite comfortable with cold weather. I wear pants up to the knee and a normal cotton t-shirt with short sleeve. And I hold a jacket by "wrapping around" my neck. I put it on when stop to rest, but took off while climbing.
When going up the summit the next early morning, I added a woollen sweater and long pant.
5. What shoe to wear. As suggested by some blogger, I wore "kampung adidas" all the way from Timpohon gate until the summit, Low's peak. It was extremely "hold" when climbing from Laban Rata to the summit where most of the surface were big rocks. I would suggest trekking or running shoe before Laban Rata and kampung addidas after that. Kampung addidas can be buy from hardware store in Malaysia, cost only RM10.

Anonymous said...

@derick Koh : thanks! yea, it was awkard at first because i've never travelled alone with my dad. but everything's a first and would do it again :)

@lim: that's awesome useful tips you added on. Thanks for that!!


Paleorina said...

Great post! I'm wondering if anyone knows if it's safe to go in December? I read online that it's slippery and dangerous then.

Anonymous said...

@paleorina: i didnt do it in dec so i wouldnt know but SEA typically experience monsoon in dec to feb. its like our kind of winter, so there will be lots of rain. that dont make the climb nor view nice.


emily said...

hi christine

may i know how big your backpack is for the climb?

Unknown said...

@Emily: you can see the size of my backpack fr my pictures.

climbingamerica said...

Rock climbing is an exhilarating sport and one that is growing in popularity. Today, people of all ages are taking up this fun but physically demanding activity.

climbing tips

Cutebun said...

Thank you for the post. I'm climbing mt kk soon and so not prepared

Anonymous said...

Great blog!! So, what undergarment would you recommend to prevent chafes and abrasions? (don't get the 'go commando')

Peter Chin said...

Going to KK this december, as well as using the package you were using. You make it sound so easy. Love the no-panty thing. You have a small ass

Xtine said...

@anon: means wear nothing :P

Thanis Lim said...

I am interested in the israel mountain climber poses!! What's his instagram? I also want to do some unique poses when I am up at the peak!

Unknown said...

Hi Dear, thank you for such an intriguing read. P/S: It was a combination of craved (CARVED) out steps and rocky terrain. Love to see more of your travel blogs.

Encounters Nepal said...

Everest Base Camp Trekking:Along with hiking through mountains and valleys, the Everest base Camp lets you travel through traditional Sherpa villages and Gompas means monasteries. We view the chaste peak Buddhist customs and their sacred peaks and valleys as well. The beauty of the great Mount Everest lying in the background of all other immense peaks can be spotted as the trek culminates at the foothills of the Everest Base Camp.
Trekking in Nepal
Everest Base Camp Trekking
Annapurna Circuit trekking
Manaslu Circuit trekking
Kanchenjunga base camp Trekking
Mansaarovar Kailash Shiva Parbat Yatra

Denes Csala said...

Video of my one day hike. Feel free to contact for any questions! :)

Anonymous said...

@thanis: i'm so sorry i cant remember!!! I am sure if you do a google image search "jumping shots at KK", it might help? Otherwise, my instagram is @chrispytine, hehehee.


Anonymous said...

Thank you for writing and sharing

Anonymous said...

One tip after climbing.. go to the Poring Hot Spring to have a relaxing soak in the hot sulfurous water OR soak in warm water in your own bathtub OR go to sauna. It'll help reduce the pain immensely ;)

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